Reinstalled my stock levers-
Well, that would have helped adding the aftermarket was part of the clicking. There is so much info to work off of and, well... Anyway, check out the aftermarket lever. Find some sort of wear-nick that kept the ticking happening. It's falling out of the pin [click] or short in the pin. The lever has so much arc. The rod has so much length. The slave pushes out so much. The Master has to push the full length in a fluid length = To break the plates apart.
If you do not throw that pin the full length, it's obvious the rod is too short to push the pressure plate away from the plates. I bet you stick a tiny ball bearing like from the tip of a Bic pen, jam it down the hole, the pin is back to throwing the rod back out to normal or at least close to a stock length so you do not slam it in gear as if the clutch lever is still out.
See, that one full throw goes so far. The rod could wear down = Short. OK, blue, thanks for that. Then the flat rubs up against a ball. That rod will spin with the pressure plate and it's almost in a, ball bearing setup, so the rod spins like a wheel turning, or it would burn up if it just jammed up against the slave, then against the pressure plate.
The click is overriding the full throw. Now the throw is = Shorter.
You can go back to that lever, modify it so the throw at that pin breaks the plates farther apart, pushes it longer, not = Shortest ~ Was the position that throw was. That is why the bike stalled going in gear.
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